Povestiri din Rajahstan 41. Templul Galta din Jaipur

In dimineata dinaintea plecarii spre Agra, am tinut neaparat sa vizitez si Galta Temple, despre care vazusem deja un documentar pe National Geographic, mai demult  ( http://wn.com/Galta_-holy_monkey_temple_Jaipur_India).

Sunt locuri care ti se lipesc de suflet fara sa poti explica prea bine de ce. Galta Temple este unul dintre acestea. Ora diminetii in care soarele  abia se inaltase pe cer si isi arunca razele asupra vaii in care se afla templul, absenta turistilor, pelerinii care petreceau un timp in templu pentru a se ruga si medita, tufele inflorite de Bougainvilea si nelipsitii porumbei, toate dadeau o stare de bine, de pace sufleteasca, pe care nu o intalnesti decat in locuri de acest gen.

In secolul al XVIII-lea, Rao Kriparam, un curtean al lui Jai Singh II,  a construit pe aceasta vale ingusta – la 10 km de Jaipur – un templu foarte mic, inchinat Soarelui, numit Surya Mandir. El se afla in partea de sus, ingusta, a vaii, parca inchizand-o. Jos, mai multe havelis, cu balcoane frumos sculptate si tavane pictate, servesc de adapost pelerinilor.

Parcarea nu are nici o amenajare speciala, asa ca masina ramane in grija vacutelor sfinte. Chiar inainte de a intra pe terenul templului, vedem cateva haveli ruinate, aflate in curs de reamenajare.

Ne dam imediat seama de ce acestui templu i se spune si Templul Maimutelor. Ele sunt mereu acolo, multe si indraznete, amestecandu-se printre oameni, plimbandu-se nestingherite. Aici, la Galta Temple am vazut si macaci si languri. Macacii sunt genul cel mai raspandit din Japonia pana in Afganistan si Africa de Nord, cuprinzand 22 de specii. Pe acestia i-am vazut in interiorul teritoriului templului, in timp ce langurii, maimutele cu fata neagra, se aflau in afara. In nord-vestul Indiei traieste langurul Hanuman, considerat animal sacru si, de aceea permitandu-i-se orice.

Dupa ce achitam cele 50 de rupii pentru dreptul de a fotografia, ne incepem vizita in templu, insotiti de “tatal maimutelor”, cel care apare si in documentarul National Geographic. E o persona prietenoasa, care are obisnuita de a vorbi cu turistii. Ne spune ca e la templu de 30 de ani, urmand ocupatia tatalui sau: ingrijitorul maimutelor de la templu. El este cel care le da de mancare, le cunoaste pe toate, iar ele il asculta ca pe un stapan.

Ne plimbam printre haveli care au pictate pe pereti scene de vanatoare sau desprinse din textele hinduse. Picturile sunt cele originale si, pe  alocuri, ar trebui refacute.

Aici se afla si un ashram, ceea ce explica numarul mai mare de pelerini. Ashramul, in acceptiunea sa din zilele noastre, este un loc in care oamenii stau o vreme pentru a participa la activitati culturale precum yoga, studiul muzicii, instruire religioasa, meditatie.  Unii, renunta la toate posesiunile lor lumesti, donandu-le ashramului, si raman aici pentru totdeauna. In aemenea loc exista intotdeauna un invatator spiritual, numit guru. Cel de la Galta este considerat a fi ashramul lui Maharishi Galab. Intram si noi sa vedem altarele sale si locul in care guru isi propavaduieste invataturile.

scene din viata lui Vishnu

In curtea interioara se afla cinci altare, inchinate diversilor zei si nelipsitul Ganesh.

sala in care propavaduieste guru
Ganesh

Apa captata a unui izvor este sursa a doua rezervoare. Cel de sus este pentru uzul oamenilor, care se imbaiaza aici, cel de jos este rezervat maimutelor. Apa limpede si rece, adusa din Gange – spune ghidul -, trece prin Gaumukh, o conducta al carei capat are forma unui cap de vaca.

Gaumukh

Urcam mai sus si ne oprim sa admiram cateva pavilioane care se oglindesc in apa unui rezervor.

Continuam apoi drumul, in sus, spre Templul Soarelui care pare ca inchide valea, ca sa gasim palcul de maimute care se scalda si stau la soare.

Templul Soarelui

Maimutele se agita cand isi vad “stapanul”, care le-a adus alune de pamant de data asta. Profit si eu de ocazie ca sa realizez cateva “portrete” ale lor. Ghidul ne indica perechea alfa a clanului. Masculul, morocanos, nu vrea sa-si arate chipul, se preface ocupat si o tuleste imediat ce aude declansatorul aparatului de fotografiat. Femela e mai cooperanta si pozeaza condescendent. Departe de a fi pline de giumbuslucuri, maimutele mi se par melancolice preocupate poate si ele, de criza mondiala.

” stapanul” maimutelor
ce vrei, tanti, de la mine?!
la fotograf, pentru poza de familie
masculul alfa
femela alfa
melancolie in grup

Vizita noastra la Galta Temple se opreste aici. E timpul sa o pornim spre Agra, lasand in urma un loc de care imi voi aminti cu placere.

Pana reintram in soseaua principala mai avem timp sa vedem cativa pauni, plimbandu-se in libertate. Trecem apoi pe langa cateva cotigi, trase de camile, la care admir modul in care le-a fost tunsa blana, pentru a le impodobi.

Stories of Rahasthan 41. Galta Temple, Jaipur
Galta Temple lies in a small valley, 10 km from Jaipur. I wanted to visit this place, as I have seen before a documentary on National Geographic, describing the monkeys’ clan from here (look at the link from Romanian text).
Galta Temple is a place I enjoyed a lot and, together with the Bundi Palace, I will cherish them as  places of tranquility and serenity. 

The temple was erected by a man living at the Jai Singh’s II court, named Rao Kriparam. Along with the havelis built for the pilgrims, here is also the Maharishi Galab’s ashram. Nowadays, an ashram is a place were people come and stay for a period for cultural activities like: yoga, religion and music studies, meditation. In the inner court there are 5 shrines and you may also see the place were the guru is teaching the devotees.

The entrance to the temple is free. One has to pay only for taking photos – 50 Rp. ‘The animals’ master” has also to be rewarded, as he doesn’t ask for a certain fee.

The temple is famous among the tourists for the big number of monkeys. Therefore it is also named The Monkey Temple. Actually, the small temple is devoted to the Sun and it is called Sun Temple or Surya Mandir.

We took a walk through the premises, which was very rewarding. You see the results in my photos.

Comments

Povestiri din Rajahstan 41. Templul Galta din Jaipur — 30 Comments

  1. Many aid, encouragement, kindness…
    From all over the world…

    Thanks to all of them.
    Tears of the heart will accept them.

    From Japan, ruma

  2. Chiar ma intrebam cum arata un ashram in interior. Si acum ma intreb de ce n-oi fi dat un search pe google ca sa vad … Frumoase poze, extrem de frumoase!

  3. Hi, Traveling Hawk. I love the photos of the river with temple reflection. The head of the cow fountain is new to me.

    Seeing locals doing their living or lifestyles in your photos is always a joy. It’s like meeting them personally also.

    Take care in all your travels. Happy weekend, my friend. 🙂

  4. Thank you for another wonderful and interesting tour!
    Congratulations monkeys who managed to pose for you!!
    Is adorable, but I fear their reactions.
    Many greetings

  5. Probabil din cauza dragostei pentru culori a indienilor, VertAnge 🙂

    Ashramul este un loc in care oamenii (care au renuntat la bunurile lor si le-au donat ashramului)traiesc si lucreaza impreuna, de ce sa fie auster?! Apoi, mai exista si cei care petrec un timp limitat in ashram, cum sunt, de ex., occidentalii si chiar romani care doresc sa experimenteze acest mod de viata 🙂

  6. stapanul maimutelor: ar fi bun de subiect de documentar de Discovery.
    niste ruine, care daca asa in felul in care sunt te fascineaza, ma intreb ce reactie ar fi produs atunci cand erau in toata splendoarea lor. frumos post.

  7. Hi my friend
    Kavala is a beautiful panoramic coastal city.
    It is enough one day, from the morning to the evening.
    You visit the old town, will take a walk on the beach, the shops are in 2 main roads and if you want with the car, take a walk in the coastal suburbs.
    Also will go to the Museum.
    The same applies to Alexandroupolis. It is a small seaside town and has beautiful beaches around.
    It is useful to tell me, by what entrance you come to Greece, can give you accurate informations.
    Feel free to ansk me everything !
    Greetings

  8. Fantastic variety post with the animals, architecture and wall designs. I have to agree with Rizalenio about the temple reflections, they are amazing. One thing that does strike me is the unusual way that the buildings are constructed on various levels as a result of the hill.

  9. pharaonx, el chiar a aparut intr-un documentar al National Geographic despre maimutele de acolo. Eu am vazut documentarul acum cativa ani si m-am bucurat ca am ocazia sa merg la Jaipur, de aceea am tinut sa merg neaparat la Galta Temple.

  10. Thank you, Magda. I will enter from Evzoni and I know the road till Keramoti. I would stay some days to visit also Kavala, Alexandroupoli, Didimotiho, Soufli and, may be, Thessaloniki, as I never stopped there.

  11. J_on_tour, I already said that Bundi Palace and Galta Temple have been the two places which impressed me the most.

    Every objective we visited was a rich offer, we saw a lot of wonderful places: palaces, fortresses, temples but also towns, villages and their people. It was a dense and great experience. It was a great journey!

  12. Hi my friend
    From Kavala towards Alexandroupoli will find town Xanthi. It is a very interesting visit, to the old town.
    Every Saturday morning until noon, is made in Xanthi, the largest bazaar of Northern Greece!
    After Xanthi is a wonderful Porto Lagos, lagoon! There’s amazing, is an old Monastery on the two smoll islands, and go there from a bridge!
    Αfter Porto-Lagos is the village Fanari, very picturesque fishing village!
    After is the town Komotini, with a interesting old and modern town.
    And after Alexantrupolis….
    Good travel !
    Greetings

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